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Christmas in Barcelona Print E-mail

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 Christmas in Barcelona                         
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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year is “Bon Nadal i Feliç Any Nou” in Catalan and “Feliz Navidad y Próspero Año Nuevo” in Spanish. Enjoy Christmas in Barcelona! How do the Spanish and Catalans celebrate Christmas? The 24th & 25th of December (El dia de Nadal or El día de Navidad) are celebrated with dinners and lunches, but Christmas does not stop there. In Spain it continues until the 6th of January, when the Three Kings arrive bearing gifts. Here are some of the most important Christmas and New Year (Cap d'Any or Año Nuevo) traditions and events in Barcelona.
 

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Scroll down the page to read about Christmas in Barcelona

go   Christmas lights & trees in Barcelona
go  
Christmas weather in Barcelona
go   Christmas fairs & markets in Barcelona
go   Christmas fare & restaurants open at Christmas
go   “La Misa Del Gallo” - Midnight Mass
go   The Reyes Magos Parade 2010 Barcelona
go   “El Pessebre” - the crib -  nativity scenes
go   “El Caganer” - The “crapper”
go   “Tió de Nadal” - The Christmas log
go    “L’Home dels Nassos” – The Noses Man
go    Barcelona New Year traditions
go    Barcelona Metro timetable Christmas and New Year
go    Barcelona sports events Christmas 2009

go    Pictures of Christmas in Barcelona (new window)




Christmas lights in Barcelona 2009 

The 50 km of
Christmas lights of Barcelona will be on from 2nd December 2009 at 18.00. The lights are from Sunday to Thursday from 18.00 to 22.00 and from Friday to Saturday from 18.00 to 24.00. One of the features of the Barcelona Christmas lights in 2009 are 26 giant pasta shells modelled on the  "Galet de Nadal", which is a typical kind of pasta shape eaten in soup in Catalunya for Christmas. Look for the pasta galets at your supermarket.

The Christmas lights are always switched on by the Mayor himself and this ceremony also welcomes the first visitors to the traditional out-door Pessebre (nativity scene) on Plaça Sant Jaume in the Gothic quarter, where you can also see the 2009 Calendar of Advent projection on the facade of the town hall. The advent calendar consists of 25 windows of December and every day for two hours in the evening, a window will be "opened" with an image and different text. The calendar will also transmit a message of peace and happiness to all citizens and visitors of the city, in different languages. Worth seeing!

The is no central Christmas tree in Barcelona. Tree are popular in Catalan homes, but there is not central tree for the city. You can find six big fir trees in other locations of Barcelona. Two of them are at the very popular Festival de la Infancia in late December at Fira Montjuic exhibition center and their lights will be powered by peddle power. You can also find 4 solar powered Christmas trees located in various outlying districts of Barcelona.

Sending Christmas cards is not really a tradition in Barcelona or Spain. Some Spanish companies do send cards to clients and business partners, but families don't send cards to each other.





Christmas weather in Barcelona


go   Weather forecast Barcelona

Christmas in Barcelona is a definately a festive time with shops, streets and avenues of Barcelona decorated with Christmas lights, but what's the weather like at Christmas in Barcelona? You can dream of a White Christmas in Barcelona, but it probably won't come true.  Barcelona does sometimes get a light dusting of snow during winter, but the chances of it being at Christmas are slim.

It can get a bit cold and certainly chilly enough to make Christmas in Barcelona feel like a winter experience. Generally the mid-day temperatures at the end of December are around 14 to 16 degrees Celsius and in the evenings the temperature can drop to between 7 and 15 degrees Celsius.




Christmas fairs & markets in Barcelona   


Pessebre - nativity scene

The oldest, biggest and most traditional Christmas market in Barcelona with almost 300 stalls is the Fira de Santa Llúcia , or in Spanish “Fira de Santa Lucia” on the Avenida de la Catedral in front of
Barcelona’s Cathedral.  The earliest recorded Christmas market in this location in Barcelona took place in 1786.  In 2009 the Christmas market is open from Sat 28th November 2009 to Wed 23rd December.

The Avenida de la Catedral and small streets by the cathedral have almost 300 stalls selling Christmas decorations and gifts. Many stalls sell the “figuritas de Belén,” which are small figures that you use to make your own crib scenes. The “figuritas de Belén,” are not that cheap and if you want the de-luxe shepherds hut with adjoining stream and wooden bridges, plus palm trees, camels and the whole malarkey, you should buy a lottery ticket for the
Spanish Christmas Lottery, El Gordo. Or buy a few pieces every year and build up your collection.

Here are some of the most popular Christmas fairs in Barcelona:

The “Fira de Santa Llúcia” Christmas fair
In front of Cathedral of Barcelona in Gothic area.
Av. De la Cathedral
Open in 2009 from 28/11 to 23/12 -2009 from 10.00 to 22.00


The Sagrada Familia Christmas Fair
Sagrada Familia
Open in 2009 from 8/12 to 23/12 December from 10.00 to 21.00


Fira de Reis a la Gran Via - The Three Kings Fair
On street of Gran Via between streets of Rocafort and  Muntaner
"La feria de Reyes de la Gran Via" also called "Sant Tomàs i Reis" (St Thomas and Kings) - and also sometimes called the Twelfth Night Fair,  is one of the biggest Christmas / New Year markets for gifts and toys in Barcelona. It has around 300 markets stalls with mostly toys and other traditional "Reyes" gifts like "carbon de azucar" (candy coal!)
Open in 2009 from 18/12 to 4/1 from 10.00 to 20.00 & on 5/1 until 03.00


The Plaça de Sants Christmas Fair
Joan Güell – Plaça de Sants
Usually open from around 1/12 to 23/12 from 10.00 to 20.00


47è Festival de la Infància
At Fira Montjuic - Click for information
Open in 2009 from 27/12 to 4/1 from 11.00 - 08.00

go    Find Christmas markets outside Barcelona in this article by Genevieve Shaw
Music plays a large part in the 2009 Christmas in Barcelona. There is a open air stage in each of Barcelona’s 10 districts and for 20 days in December there will be free performances by schools, choirs and band between 17:00 and 21:00 hours in the evening.

The stages are located as follows: Ciutat Vella (Portal de l’Àngel), Eixample (Plaça Catalunya), Sants Montjuïc (Plaça de Sants), Sarrià-Sant Gervasi (Plaça Sarrià), Gràcia (Plaça Revolució), Horta (Plaça Eivissa), Nou Barris (Plaça Virrei Amat); Sant Andreu (Plaça Orfila), Sant Martí (Rbla Guipúscoa), Les Corts (Plaça Comas).




Christmas food traditions Barcelona


In Catalonia “escudella i carn d'olla” is a typical Christmas dish. This is a tasty bowl  (escudella means bowl) of pasta shells "galets" in a meat and vegetable stew, then followed by "
carn d'olla"  which is a meat dish of stuffed capon or turkey.

Dessert could be traditional “torrons,” which is on sale at Christmas markets and supermarkets everywhere in Barcelona. This is nougat made with almonds, hazelnuts and honey.  Christmas bread, “El Pa de Nadal” is sold at bakeries all over Barcelona.

Not all restaurants are open in Barcelona at Christmas. Generally the bigger chain restaurants and the hotel restaurants are open during Christmas, but to avoid disapointment we recommend contacting restaurants to check their opening times and to make a reservation.

go   Read excellent article about Escudella in Barcelona Metropolitan Magazine
go   Recipe for escudella i carn d'olla by Clifford A. Wright
go   Find restaurants in Barcelona

Most shops are closed both on both 25th and 26th December.  For grocery shopping the OpenCor chain of stores is open on 26th December.

go   OpenCor shops in Barcelona



“La Misa Del Gallo” - Christmas Eve Midnight Mass


Midnight Mass is celebrated on Christmas Eve in Barcelona. The chiming of church bells summons families to the mass which is called "La Misa Del Gallo"  - The Mass of the Rooster. This names derives from the belief that only time that a rooster crowed at midnight was on Christmas Eve when Jesus was born.

The Midnight Mass is a charming service. The most memorable Christmas mass can be found 40 km northwest of Barcelona in
"la Basílica de Montserrat,"  the Benedictine monastery built on the steep cliffs of Montserrat mountain range. At this midnight mass you can hear the angelic voices of Europe's oldest boys' choir called L’Escolania de Montserrat.




The Reyes Magos bring gifts in Spain, not Santa 


You can see jolly old Santa Claus in
shopping malls in Barcelona and on Spanish TV stations, but he is not the main character of Christmas celebrations in Barcelona and Spain. The tradition in Spain and Catalonia is that the biggest Christmas celebration is not on 25th December, the birth of Christ, but when “Los Reyes Magos”  the Three Kings of the Orient (also known as the Three Wise Men Balthasar, Caspar and Melchior) arrive to see the new born baby Jesus.


Three Kings Parade Barcelona

This is called the Night of the 3 Kings, the “Cabalgata los Reyes Magos,” or the "Cavalcada de Reis" in Catalan and The Three Kings’ Parade and also know as the “Twelfth Night procession”

The tradition in Spain is that the Three Kings bring the presents, not Santa.

The Reyes Magos parade in Spain and Barcelona takes place on 5th January every year. This is the evening before Twelfth Night Epiphany on 6th January, which is the day when the children in Spain get the most presents.  On the night of 5th December Spanish and Catalan children don’t put a stocking out by the chimney, but instead they put out their shoes for the Three Kings to fill. They also leave hay and water for the camels, instead of milk and cookies for Santa.  On the morning of the 6th January the hay and water is gone and the shoes are filled with gifts!

The biggest Christmas parade and celebration  in Spain and Barcelona is on 5th January, which is the evening before Twelfth Night also called Epiphany on the 6th January: The 6th is the biggest gift giving day of the year in Barcelona and Spain.

The parade is called  “La Cabalgata de Reyes Magos” in Spanish - in Catalan "la Cavalcada de Reis."  and called The Three Kings’ Parade or also known as the “Twelfth Night procession.” The Three Kings are also known as the Three Wise Men and their names are of course, Balthasar, Gaspar, and Melchior.


The Three Kings parade is a procession of impressively decorated “carrozas” ( parade floats.) The most important floats are the ones with the Three Kings. Each carroza is manned by costumed adults and chldren tossing candy to the jubilant throngs of families and children lining the parade route. Some neighbourhoods have their own parade and the city has a big central parade every year which starts from the Moll de la Fusta in the Port Vell Marina of Barcelona

2010 Cavalcada de Reis - Route & Timetable

16.30 Moll de la Fusta (click for map)

 Arrival of Three Kings on the maritime museum's schooner Santa Eulàlia to the dock called Moll de La Fusta in front of Columbus monument at the Rambla de Mar.

18.30 Parade starts from Av. Marques de l'Argentera
The parade starts from side entrance of Park Ciutadella then route is down Av Marques de l'Argentera, Via Laietana, Plaza Urquinaona, Ronda Sant Pere, Rda. Sant Antoni, Sepulveda, Villaroel, Lleida and finishes at AV de Rius i Taulat at around 21.30.

21.30 Parade finishes at Avinguda de Rius i Taulat (click for map )  
go  "Cabalgata los Reyes Magos 2009" in Barcelona




“El Pessebre de Nadal” - nativity scenes  


A Spanish and Catalan Christmas would not be complete without the nativity scene, complete with palm trees,  shepherds, Three Wise men on camels, Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus.

The nativity scene in Catalonia is called “El Pessebre de Nadal” in Catalan. Pessebre means "stable", but El Pessebre de Nadal refers to the manger or the crib, where Christ was born.  It is also called “El Belén” in Spanish. “Belén de Judá” means “Bethlehem of Judea”

Crib scene displays can be found many places in Barcelona on plazas, in churches and in all Catalan homes, both in statue form and living nativity plays called a "pessebre vivent". The official city pessebre is on Plaça Sant Jaume and open from 2 december 2009. You can find more information about pessebres here:

go Official Pessebre website
go  Website of association of pessebre vivent


Places in Barcelona to see a Christmas Pessebre include:

-Outdoor Pessebre in Plaça de Sant Jaume

-Cloister of Barcelona cathedral La Seu - entrance from Carrer del Bisbe

-El pessebre diorama in the Iglesia de Belén (Esglèssia de Betlem) on Las Ramblas 107

-Sagrat Cor de Jesús del Tibidabo - church on Tibidabo hill

-Museu Monestir de Pedralbes - Museum & Monastery of Pedralbes






“El Caganer” - The “crapper”

Among the figures in a good “Pessebres” you will find a funny little fellow, called "El Caganer", who is very Catalan Christmas tradition

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This is the bad boy of Catalan navitivy scenes as “El Caganer” literally means “The crapper” or "the shitter" This is a an elf or gnome like figure wearing the traditional Catalan red cap, the barretina, and with his trousers down, his backside bare, defecating somewhere in the nativity scene! His origins are a bit murky, but apparently he has been dropping his britches to "fertilize the earth" since the middle of the 19th century at least. He is a very popular fellow and brings good luck. He can be seen in in many forms and public figures have the honour of being portrayed with their pants down at Christmas. In 2009 the popular new caganer figures are of Christian Ronaldo, Barack Obama, Zlatan Ibrahimović and others. The models are handmade and cost from 5-20 euros each depending on size.


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There was an attempt in 2005 to leave this little guy out of from the Plaça Sant Jaume official Pessebres for being politically incorrect, especially in times when we are trying nightlife revellers not to use the streets as public toilets, but there were many protests and the Caganer is back where he belongs along we couldn't spot him in 2009! You can read more about that in this fine article about
Catalan Caganer's by Jeremy Rose.








“Tió de Nadal” - The Christmas log  

Another Christmas tradition in Catalonia is the “Tió de Nadal.”  In this name the word "Tió" is Catalan, not Castellano and the word "tió" in Catalan means “log,” not “uncle” or “guy,” which is the Spanish meaning.

Caga Tio


The “Tió de Nadal” Christmas log is a usually a small log with a happy face painted on it and the typical Catalan barretina red hat. You can see giant Tió de Nadal at children's Christmas events. The Christmas log is also called “Caga Tió.” which means "the pooing log"
. It works like this. The Christmas log is pampered and looked after by children from the 8th December, which is the day of Immaculate Conception “Dia de la Immaculada Concepció,” and a public holiday until Christmas Eve 24th December.  The Caga Tió even gets a blanket to keep it warm at night.

Then on Christmas Eve the children beat the log and yell “Caga Tió,” which is the imperative tense of the the verb "to defacate" so it actually means "Shit log!"  Then they sing “Caga Tió” songs to get the log to “poo” some presents.

Then the tradition is that if you have a fireplace you burn the “Tió" but many keep it for next year. It does all sound a bit Christmas at Guantanamo Bay, but it's great fun and the kids love it. After a thorough beating and , the log usually defecates some presents or sweets. 




“L’Home dels Nassos” – The Noses Man

New Year's traditions in Barcelona. “L’Home dels Nassos” is another curious Catalan tradition. This tradition is for New Year’s Eve on on the 31st December, also called the day of San Silvestre,  Saint Sylvester.

L’Home dels Nassos roams the streets on 31st December every year handing out candy to the children. His name is derived from the many noses on his face – one for each day of the year.  
San Silvestre is also the name of a popular 10 km San Silvestre run in Barcelona on the last day of the year 31st December.

go  Read more about the Noses man here ( in Spanish)





Barcelona New Years' Eve traditions


New Years Eve is celebrated in Spain with food and parties.
New Years Eve is celebrated on Plaza Catalunya in the centre of town but this is not an official ceremony. Many people choose to celebrate at bars, clubs and restaurants in Barcelona.Most people at parties turn on the TV to watch the live transmission from Madrid's central square. Fireworks do not play a major part in the New Year celebrations in Barcelona, so there is no official city fireworks display.

In Spain at midnight everyone eats the twelve lucky grapes, one at each strike of the bell, and toasts with Cava. According to an excellent book about oddities in Spain by Valerie Collins and Theresa O’Shea called “In the Garlic” this tradition is explained as follows:

“As for the grapes, you might imagine that the custom of eating twelve lucky uvas at midnight on December 31 dates back to ancient times. In fact, it was dreamed up by Valencian grape-growers in 1909 as a way of getting rid of an extra-bumper crop. One grape after each chime of the clock to give thanks for the past year's good luck and in anticipation of the lucky year to come. A hundred years is a short time when it comes to gene development, but it seems the Spanish have already honed the how-to-eat-12-grapes-in-12-seconds-without-choking gene. Actually, they cheat. The Puerta del Sol clock in Madrid , which everybody watches on TV, is slowed down to a more digestible one strike every three seconds.”
go  Find News Years Parties in Barcelona



Barcelona Metro Christmas and New Year 


On Christmas eve 24/12 the Metro will operate at normal times and close at 23.00. On New Years Eve 31st December the metro will be open all night.



Sports events at Christmas Barcelona


There are four sports events during the Christmas season in Barcelona

go  Buff Epic 10k Obstacle Race - Sunday 20th December 2009
go  Christmas walk  - Sunday 20th December 2009
go  Christmas day harbour swim - 25th December 2009
go  New Years Day swim 1st January 2010




Restaurants in Barcelona open Christmas 2009 & New Year

This list is still being updated, but we advise you to check daily papers and contact restaurants directly for reservations.

Els Quatre Gats
Open all Christmas from 10.00 to 02.00 at night.
Open New Years Eve 2009 with special party menu € 120
Kitchen open from 13.00 to 01.00.

CInc Sentits
Closed from 24-28th Dec 2009 both dates included
Closed from 1-10th January 2010
both dates included
Open NYE with have tables available still for lunch. NYE dinner is fully booked.


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That's all we have for now - except to wish you all a Bon Nadal i Feliç any Nou!

go  Pictures of Christmas in Barcelona
go  Find Catalan and Spanish Christmas names on Catalunya TV3 website
go  Barcelona City  website about Christmas fairs & events in Barcelona 2009
go  PDF document Christmas activitities at Barcelona museums 2009/2010 (Catalan)




 
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